Sunday, April 6, 2014

Inimitable Mountain Island, Adrift in a Desert Sea

Echo Canyon Loop Trail
Chiricahua NM, Arizona
3.3 miles round-trip, easy
We’ve crossed miles of southeastern Arizona desolation to arrive at this place the Apache called Land of the Standing-Up Rocks.  Chiricahua NM rises up from the desert floor, a geologic incongruity born of block-faulting and volcanism, a sky island sited at the confluence of the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts, the Sierra Madre and Rocky Mountains.

Along the Echo Canyon Trail.
Our hike begins at the Echo Canyon Trailhead, elevation 6784 feet.  We will follow a counter-clockwise loop, one cobbled from three trails that showcase the sequestered beauty and biodiversity of sky island environments.  We duck to the southwest across a rugged mesa and into a stand of increasingly imposing rock formations, many embellished with vibrant chartreuse lichen.  A half-mile along our way, we detour through the cave-like Grottoes, scrambling up and down, down and up, in the shadow of erosion-sculpted boulders. 

On the Trail, Amidst Sculpted Rock.
Wending and winding in comfortable descent, we encounter fantastical hoodoos, graceful spires, and improbably balanced rocks at every turn. Echo Canyon does indeed reverberate with raucous chatter and riotous footfall; fortunately, the trail is lightly traveled this late-March morning, allowing peaceable appreciation of the ever-modulating view.
Echo Canyon Trail: Hoodoos, Spires, and Balanced Rocks.
Wall Street.
Close to the mile mark, we come to Wall Street. Generations ago, Civilian Conservation Corps exploited and expanded existing rock fractures, creating a magnificently claustrophobic, sheer-walled corridor through the rhyolite.
In time, splendid rock formations give way to wooded terrain as the trail bottoms out in Echo Park, a tranquil copse of cypress and fir.  We traverse seasonal Bonita Creek and trace our way through riparian forest before emerging on an exposed ridge. 

Rhyolite Canyon, the Desert Beyond.
The Echo Canyon Trail concludes at a 1.6-mile junction.  As we turn onto the Hailstone Trail, the landscape alters once again.  We amble along a dry, south-facing slope, taking in views of Rhyolite Canyon, noting distinctive flora and fauna of this sun-drenched stretch of trail: agave, yucca, prickly pear, and hedgehog cacti... lizards exercising territorial push-ups or skirting under rocks.

On the Ed Riggs Trail.
Near the two-and-a-half-mile mark, we merge onto a trail named for CCC construction foreman Ed Riggs. We ascend a pine-filled ravine, returning to the mesa top and completing the loop.  A haughty, complaining call amidst the pinyon pine, a flutter of wings against the blue morning sky: we have startled a gray-breasted jay from a favored perch.  It rushes away, a lovely, fleeting reminder of the wonder and diversity of this transcendent island suspended above an arid sea.